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首先是英文版说明书
M2PRO 2.002使用方法与1.33B有所不同。
Alright, here's a couple of things I ran across when I modded some PS2s with the v2.00 chip - some of which you might find helpful. Some of these are regurgitated solutions from the different posts on this board.
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Just so you know, M2PRO v2.00 is the latest official chip. You can usually check the authenticity by checking if the MOD uses an ACTEL chip. It's vanilla, so there shouldn't be any extra surnames or trademarks on it (like PROASIC or SCENIX).
(EDIT: More specifically, the M2 uses the SX32-A chip, which is a low cost version of the ACTEL chips.)
- First and foremost, the soldering has changed. I don't want to repeat it again in here, but the further troubleshooters indirectly rely on it.
- For v0-v7 PS2s, the solder points needed are GND, SCEx, CLK, 3.3V, A, B, I, M, N, O, P, Q, R, T, U, V, and W. Reset and C-H are not used.
- For v8-v10, all the above points are needed along with the addition of point F and G (apparently for DVD+RW functionality).
- Japanese PS2s need point H.
- Second, it seems there was a bit of confusion regarding the new method in booting up the v2.00. The instructions stated to "tap reset" a certain number of times.
- "Taps" must be successively entered after booting from standby mode (red light).
- For PS2 mode, boot normally (i.e. press reset once)
- For PSX mode, press reset to startup the PS2. When the blue eject light comes on, reset the console again to boot in PSX mode (thus, two taps).
- For Special Mode, press reset to startup the PS2. When the blue eject light comes on, reset the console. When the blue light comes on again, reset it one more time. Note that this mode is only used with discs that require the MOD to turn off after the initial boot (more below).
- As you can guess, turning off the chip requires that you reset a 4th time.
The special mode was made to address the obvious problem when booting a backup of a booter disc, namely region emulators and cheat discs. Previously, booting a backed up region disc with the PS2 mode on (rather than the MOD's "off" mode) would successfully boot the region disc. When it was time to insert the DVD, however, the Video Disc would be detected as a PS2 disc and the video would never be able to load. The special mode solves this by booting in PS2 mode, but turning off when another disc was inserted.
- The M2PRO doesn't inherently contain region changing/emulating functionality, so you're gonna have to find a region disc. Don't ask for that here - most of them are commercial products and simply asking would be the quickest way for you to get banned.
- ADDENDUM (May 18, 2004): On another note, the boot disc utilities that are found the the "Utilities" page may be worth looking into. Unfortunately, the McLoader "Multi-Region Disc" does not work with V4 and up on US PS2s (It's been said that the programmer didn't have any of those on hand to test).
- If your PSX games refuse to boot, check if you get a RSOD (Red Screen of Death, where the PS2 reverts to an "insert a PS2 formatted ..." screen. If you're just getting a blue PS2 disc, then you're more than likely booting the game wrong. See above.
If you get a RSOD, then open up the PS2 and check the SCEx solder point. As Charlie_ps2 once advised, the solder bond here must be firm and clean. Desolder if you have to, and be sure that it's a clean bond on the exact point. Also, don't glob a huge ball onto it - it will more than likely short with another point next to the SCEx.
- If your PS2 games refuse to boot (with a read disk error), it will more than likely be your laser at fault. Try cleaning the lens and attempting the laser cog and azimuth adjustment (use search above). A general rule of thumb is that V4 PS2 and below (sometimes also V5) have a bit of trouble reading DVD+Rs.
- After modding, check to see if your fan works (it'll save you a LOT of trouble in the long run). Also, if your lights come on but you get a black screen, then check if the DVD tray ejects. If it doesn't, first check for any wires that may have snagged on the screws during reassembly. A common scenario is that you get a perfect boot on a test run before you screw in, but the PS2 goes kaplut when you screw in all the screws. Four of the eight screws go straight through to the other side of the PS2 case, and there might be a chance that the screw may have caught on the wire and either 1) snapped off the solder point, or 2) crimped the wire to the point where its conductivity was cut off.
- ADDENDUM (May 25, 2004): A quick note and fix-it for wire crimps: A common indicator for crimps is that the reset light comes on, but the PS2 doesn't eject and the blue light doesn't come on. It seems that cutting the wires too short (where there's almost no slack in the wire - GND is exempt) or bunching them up in stress spots may black screen the PS2. Instead of desoldering ALL the points, desolder the 3.3V power wire from the chip (not from the board) and place the wire in a place where it won't short another point. If your PS2 boots and works normally from that point (i.e. boots PS2 originals), then resolder the 3.3V power point and spread out your wires. If you taped them to the board, try untaping and rearranging the wires. Here's a couple of stress spots to look out for:
- Between the EE chip and the heatsink (Wire I in particular)
- The topside of the EE chip (Wires MNOPQRTUVW) shouldn't be bunched up or taped here
Generally, don't make the wires too long. But you shouldn't have to do a desolder step, just move the M2 itself a little closer to the solder points or rearrange the wires around the topside of the EE chip (this is evident in v4-v7).
If that doesn't work, disassemble the entire thing and check for solder bridges. When I mean check, I mean use a 10x magnifying glass and go through the motherboard with a fine tooth comb. If you stripped the wires too long, there may be a chance that it may be shorting with some other wires or points. Check between the pins for any bridges. Use an exacto knife and scratch away between the pins - you're most likely not going to damage the PCB this way (The scratch dust you see is most likely flux residue).
If your lights don't come on, then you got a major problem. There's a possibility that something got blown, somewhere. However, it's a hardware issue that's beyond the scope of this post, so use the search function on this board.
- ADDENDUM (May 18, 2004): In case your PS2's acting strange or refusing the boot up, there's always the possibility that your reset/eject cable was damaged during the install. The basic consensus says that the flat silver cable may be crucial in a variety of instances, mode switching included. Since investing in a new cable won't make all that big of a dent in your wallet, you may want to try using a new cable.
EXTRA NOTES:
- Sony's online detection mechanism is not a modchip specific problem! When you buy an original online enabled game, the easiest way to play the game is to turn the modchip off. Your other alternative is to patch the ISO with a patcher tool (this usually is the case with backup games).
WinDiscID Patcher by Gadget-Freak:
http://forums.psxforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=20624
For now, this forum is the home of this program. The software by any other name is a second generation hexed version, so used Gadget-Freak's software.
- A general anamoly you might run into when starting up the PS2 is that the swirling electrons all converge into one big ball. This is not due to the modchip. Since most people mod their PS2s with the cables disconnected, the power supply from the internal battery is cut off and the clock is then reset. All you have to do is set the time and everything should be back to normal.. |
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